2009 Northern California Tour

Riders this year are Dave, Bob Vigerut of Vancouver, British Columbia, and myself. Dave and I were staying at a conference hotel and caught the shuttle to the Los Angeles airport about 7:45 AM on Sunday morning for the 9:50 AM flight to San Francisco. We found a long line for the security screening that stretched back and forth on the sidewalk outside the terminal. We were glad we had plenty of time and arrived at the gate nearly an hour before departure. Dave headed to Starbucks for his coffee fix and brought my fix as well, a hot cocoa and a chocolate fudge brownie. (It's good to get your minimum daily requirement in early.)

The flight was normal and after collecting our bags we headed to the United baggage area to hook up with Bob. He was flying up from Orange County airport and was scheduled to arrive twenty minutes after us. While we were reviewing the arrivals display, my phone rang. It was Bob and I told him we were pleased to see that his flight had arrived. He replied that he wasn't actually on the flight. The shuttle to the airport was late, he missed his flight, and the next flight he could get on would have him arriving SFO around 8:30 PM, long after the motorcycle rental place would have closed. So Bob, resourceful as he is, had rented a car and was on Interstate 5 northbound. His GPS indicated that he'd arrive around 4:00 PM.

So Dave and I took a taxi to the EagleRider location in downtown San Francisco, agreeing to keep in touch with Bob as the day played out. Our driver was Carlos from Brazil. Dave gave him the phone number for EagleRider so he could call to find out exactly where they were. As he was entering the number into his phone, we were straddling the 101 South and 101 North lanes. I was in the back seat and heard a high pitched OOPS! as his attention returned to the road. Carlos didn't seem to have a problem with low ego and we were fascinated by the triumphant fists extending from the top of his taxi.

At EagleRider we went through the process of getting our machines, a BWM R1200GS for Dave and a Harley Sportster for me. I had shipped my riding gear and the box was in the second floor lounge. Dave had carried his with him. By 2:00 PM we were packed and ready to ride. Bob was still on schedule and we were hungry so we decided to ride to Fisherman's Wharf for a late lunch. We took Bryant Street to the waterfront and followed The Embarcadero to Fisherman's Wharf, parking in a public garage. We took the footbridge over to the Pier 39 area. stopping for photos along the way. The weather was great! This first photo shows Alcatraz in the background at the right.

Flowers were everywhere and were a great reminder of the more temperate climate that we were going to enjoy for the coming days.

We got an outside table in the sun at The Wipeout where we enjoyed the warmth of the sunshine and ate to the live jazz from a local musician. Afterward we walked the area, stopping to overlook the marina, listen to the caliope music from a two story merry-go-round, and catch a view of the Golden Gate Bridge.

On the way back to the motorcycles, we came across the Pier 39 sea lions. They started to congregate on the docks shortly after the 1989 San Francisco earthquake. Now as many as 900 have been seen during winter months. Males can reach 850 pounds and 7 feet in length.

We arrived back at EagleRider just before Bob. They had told us that they don't start the rental process after 4:00 PM and they close at 5:00 PM. Bob arrived just after 4:00 but they took care of him. Bob had selected a BWM R1200RT. At 5:00 PM sharp, the EasyRider staff were riding off on their own machines. While Bob packed, Dave returned his rental car to the airport.

When Dave got back we headed out. Dave led us onto Interstate 80 which took us almost immediately to US-101 that followed San Francisco city streets to the Golden Gate Bridge. Northbound traffic does not pay tolls. Crossing the bridge on a motorcycle is a bit of a thrill. Several exits north of the bridge we turned off 101 onto CA-1, Shorline Highway, toward Stinson Beach. This was to take us past John Muir woods and Mount Tamalpai. We knew it was going to be a good ride when we saw the sign: Vehicles Over 35 Feet Not Advised. The next ten miles or so were largely sharp curves and spectacular views.

We had thought that Stinson Beach would be our destination, since services are scarce farther north, and that turned out to be true. Arriving at the edge of town, a highway crew was clearing debris from a downed tree. We learned later that the road had been closed for about five hours and had just re-opened. Reflecting on Bob's missed flight, the original schedule would have had us sitting on the roadside waiting for the road to open.

We checked into the Stinson Beach Motel. The proprietor was delighted that we'd taken the last two rooms so he could then close the office and give full attention to the five chicken legs he was preparing for dinner. We also were delighted that he could accommodate us since the next place listed in Bob's Fodor's guide would have been a great distance. We walked to the market and then to the SandDollar Cafe for a great dinner with live music.

Total miles: <35, including to Fisherman's Wharf and back.

Day 2

We didn't get up any too early. We were in two rooms, Bob in one and Dave and I in the other. Each room had only a single bed, but I'd come prepared with a sleeping bag that would allow the three of us to share a single two bed room when available. Here's Bob at his room.

He'd been up before Dave and me and had found the beach and the Parkside Cafe, to which he led us for breakfast. Before going in we studied the postings on the two bulletin boards. We were amused by the admonitions as well as the promotions for the Zen Carpenter, Happy Paws Dog Walking service, and more.

FYI: Nostradamus, (1503-1566), French physician and astrologer who wrote Centuries, a famous collection of prophecies published in 1555.

I'll leave the interpretation of this one to the viewer. Hint: Follow the model above.

The Parkside Cafe fireplace was putting off heat and felt good. Stinson Beach struck us as an artist community.

This painting, one of many, kept Dave and Bob occupied for some time identifying the various models and relating their personal experiences with cars of this vintage.

After breakfast we strolled to the beach. The blue sky was a welcome sight, although the forecast was for low fifties temperatures and winds gusting over 50 MPH.

Then it was time to pack up and hit the road. It was probably 10:00 AM before we got rolling.

The miles that followed on the Shoreline Highway were great for motorcycle riding. Views were spectacular, yet the road demanded good attention as there were many sharp curves with some small elevation change. We went through a series of little towns with populations ranging from 50 up and elevations ranging from 15 feet up. We experienced very little traffic and other drivers were very courteous about pulling off to the side to let us pass. Bob was leading and stopped at this overlook.

Dave took this as the occasion for the innaugural use of his Harley Davidson thermos kit, which he had filled with coffee at the motel. The kit had been a gift of one of his business partners whose family owns Black Hills Harley Davidson in Rapid City, SD. Note the dramatic coastline.

A highlight of the day was the stop at Fort Ross, a colony that was founded in 1812 by members of the Russian-American Company. The colony was a trade base for supplying Russia until it was sold due to financial losses in 1841. The property changed hands a number of times thereafter and has quite a history.

This is the restored Orthodox church. For more on Fort Ross, click here.

This view from inside the church shows the Pacific Ocean a couple hundred yards beyond the west wall of the fort. The large tree is a eucalyptus and the base was huge.

There were places on the road where the eucalyptus created a canopy that covered us. One of the virtues of motorcycle travel is the connection with the environment. We could smell the aroma of the trees as we rode through these areas.

The high winds and low 50s temperatures were taking their toll on us. Dave's helmet offered little protection from the wind. At this stop we were hoping for some lunch to warm up, but there was nothing available in the little town. So Bob and Dave studied the Fodor's guide and we headed on to Mendocino.

A major criteria for accommodation this night was a hot tub. The choice was the MacCullum House B&B and Bob's knack for finding things led us right there. Here we are unloading. Click http://www.maccallumhouse.com for other photos.

The lillies to the left of Dave's head compelled me to photograph them.

We shared a room on the third floor. My sleeping bag was rolled out on the floor to the right of Bob under the roofline. We were soon in the hot tub.

The discount tokens for dinner that we received at check-in were just the incentive to keep us right there for a wonderful meal. The fireplace was active and we had a table in the corner of the glassed in porch, giving us a view of the coast in the distance. Bob noted that a bottle of wine is just right for three people. We slept well.

Total miles: ~150.

Day 3

Early riser Bob started the day with his coffee and another session in the hot tub. He and Dave had already scoped the town for the shopping outing that would happen after breakfast, which was included with the room. Dave had the best view, but Bob and I had good ones too. We learned that there was no public water system and the towers we saw around town were artifacts from pre-pressure tank times.

Before heading out, we asked someone to get us all in a photo.

The plan was to continue following the Shoreline Highway up the coast another 40 miles or so to where it turns inland at Rockport. Again, there were dramatic views all along.

Perhaps the highlight of the day began when we left the coast and climbed through the hills heading east to the end of California 1. I was riding third and lost sight of Dave about half way. When I found them standing by their motorcycles at the intersection of US-101, I pulled up and exclaimed "WOW!". Bob declared "Then it's unanimous!". That stretch of winding road would be among the best riding any of us had experienced ever.

We picked up 101, known there as the Redwood Highway, and headed south to CA-20 east. Arriving at Nice, on the north shore of Clear Lake, Bob did his navigational magic once again and led us to a place for lunch overlooking the lake. The warmer termperatures and sunshine were most welcome.

We enjoyed the ducks that were hanging around, probably expecting us to feed them. Bob found the Trivial Pursuit cards in the condiment rack and we were reminded how much we don't know.

We considered staying in the area, but in the end concluded that the ride to Calistoga would be reasonable. We followed the north shore of Clear Lake to the east and then caught CA-53 south to Calistoga. Again, we were rewarded with a delightful climb through the hills in the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park area.

Another consultation of Fodor's and we were on our way to the Calistoga Spa Hot Springs and their naturally heated mineral pools.

After enjoying sampling the pools, we headed out for a light dinner. I was sure the sushi sign we passed entering town would not have escaped Dave's attention and I was right.

We walked the streets of Calistoga after eating, searching for a place to get a dessert, but no joy. The sleepy little town that caters to spa and winery visitors doesn't seem to have much of a night life. We settled for a gas station ice cream assortment and made our way back to the room, happy to have had another great day of riding.

Total miles: ~200.

Day 4

Again Bob was up first and found coffee in the downtown area. We had talked the night before and concluded that we needed to get on the road earlier than has been our habit in order to get back to EagleRider. Before leaving our place of accommodation, we walked to the downtown area for breakfast. First observation was steam coming from the hot pools. My energy consciousness had to acknowledge that the hot water for these pools apparently comes from natural springs. Next Bob pointed out a hot air balloon in the distance getting an early start.

Bob had a specific Napa Valley destination in mind. He was aware of Grgich Hills wine and wanted to visit.

Inside the door was the tasting room and immediately beyond that was this stack of barrels.

Considering that we were riding, the tastes were very small. Of the three of us, Bob is the connoisseur. Over a previous meal (Bob always ordered the wine.) we had discussed this and related to the movie Sideways. Bob was our Miles. Dave and I were Jack, who did his wine tasting while chewing gum.

Bob bought his limit of one bottle that can be carried across the border into Canada. Dave also got a bottle. I took advantage of the opportunity to soak in some California sunshine. As we rode along, we were impressed with the geometric precision with which the vineyards are laid out. We would see the main rows as well as multiple diagonals. Large air movers in the fields are operated when there is danger of spring frosts causing damage.

While I was not so inspired by the wine, I was fascinated by the solar photovoltaic (PV) array on the roof.

I went back in to ask about it and was directed to a kiosk right inside the door that showed the amout of power being generated at the moment. At the time I took the photo, the PV system was generating all the electricity to operate the business and a little more that was being sold back to the power company.

I'm actively involved with our local sustainable energy network (www.wcsen.org) and have done a little PV work with much more planned (www.romichfoundation.org/Energy) so I found this really interesting.

Next stop was downtown Napa. Again, Bob came through with another good stop for us. He and Dave were craving their coffee fix. I couldn't resist a chocolate double malted shake. A table in the sun, motorcycles in the background, and beverages we enjoy: life is good.

Bob is plotting our course for the rest of the day and proposed a stop at Muir Woods, which he'd never seen. (Overall, Bob had much the more time in northern California than either Dave or myself and that enriched our experience.) To get to Muir Woods, we got back to US-101 southbound and took the same exit we used Sunday evening. There was a comfortable familiarity back on CA-1 north, but it seemed a long time ago that we followed this same route.

This cross section dated back to 909 AD, 1100 years ago this year. More on Muir Woods can be found at http://www.nps.gov/muwo.

We had some discussion regarding the impossibility of capturing the magnificence of the redwood trees in a photograph. Bob had recently tried with the mammoth Douglas firs in his area. Still, I had to try.

We hiked the trail before making a short stop at the gift shop.

We remounted for the final leg of the tour and worked our way back to 101 south. We were soon at the toll gate for the Golden Gate Bridge. Bob paid for all three of us, but we had to exit the toll gate one at a time. Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge the second time carried the same thrill. I'd had some anxiety about riding through San Francisco on a Wednesday afternoon, but it turned out to be no issue. At one intersection when we were on Lombard Street I was asked where the curvy part was and pointed to the top of the hill. Recalling doing that in a car, I'm glad we turned right onto Van Ness before climbing that hill. The timing worked out so well as we arrived back at EagleRider with plenty of time to unload, check in, and repack for the next leg.

Total miles: ~100.

I have to admit to a certain sadness that our time on two wheels was over. Dave and I were flying out that night, but Bob's flight was the next day. We had enough time to accompany Bob to his airport Embassy Suites and have dinner together for the last time (on this trip) before catching the shuttle to the airport. SFO to LAX. LAX to CLE on the redeye flight. We both slept well. Dave had parked in Cleveland and dropped me off in Wooster, about the time Bob could be stirring in preparation for his return to Vancouver.

This was a great thing to do. We need to remember what a good thing an early spring motorcycle ride is when considering future trips.

Dave Hershberger
Bob Vigerut
Barry Romich